The Palazzo Barberini, commissioned by Pope Urban VIII in 1625, is one of the most visited attractions in Rome. As part of the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica, it houses an exquisite art collection with works by masters such as Raphael and Caravaggio, and dazzles with its grand baroque architecture.

But to some, like myself, the true masterpiece here is a staircase designed by the eminent baroque architect, Francesco Borromini.

Borromini’s design is helicoidal and follows the principle of turning on its rotational axis, as opposed to the common circular design. Allegedly, this provides easier ascent for its users, although I suspect it made nothing easier for those involved in its construction.

Each elegant rotation of the stairwell comprises 12 Doric double twisted columns adorned with bees, the symbol of the Barberini family. The stairwell is at its maximum width on the ground floor and slowly grows tighter as it gracefully ascends. It emits strength, and yet is light and elegant at the same time.

Tragically, in the summer of 1667, Francesco Borromini took his own life. According to several of his patrons he was difficult to work with and was even described as having a “tortured soul.” As one of the three main Italian baroque masters, along with Pietro Da Cortona and the great Gian Lorenzo Bernini, his extreme abrasiveness hindered his career when compared to his two principal rivals, which we can only imagine added to his anguish.

After one of my several photo shoots of the masterpiece, I read a brief version of his life for the first time. I couldn’t help but wonder if, before departing this world, Francesco Borromini had realized the enduring gift which he’d bestowed upon humanity and to the eternal city of Rome.